Friday, 21 January 2011

Corneliani meets Le Corbusier at Milan Menswear Fashion Week

The New York Times fashion editor Suzy Menkes declared 'menswear needs architects more than decorators'. Creative Director Sergio Corneliani paid tribute to this with his reinterpretation of the Master of Modernism Le Corbusier's simplistic design approach at Milan Menswear Fashion Week.  Double breasted suits took inspiration from the 1940 styled with bow ties and brief cases. The colour palette followed suit with watered down cool blues, slate greys, camel, coal and white hues and controlled flourishes of luminescent satin detailing at the neckline. This formal look was finished with Corbusier's trademark turtle shell glasses.

The show's second movement extended to leisure and outdoor clothing presenting a wardrobe fit for the Modern Renaissance man. Suits were deconstructed and incorporated into outdoor woollen jackets styled with elegant spatts and leather weekend bags. Overcoats and hiking boots gave a sartorial nod to Pre War explorer imagery before models in pristine white ski suits closed the show.

A standout feature of the Corneliani presentation was the QR coding on labels sewn into garments once scanned using your mobile would connect to a video explaining the story of the brand and its collection. Very modern indeed.

Thursday, 20 January 2011

Thierry Mugler Menswear A/W 2011

Thierry Mugler presents its Menswear Autumn/Winter 2011 collection unifying creative director Nicola Formichetti and designer Romain Kremer. This reincarnation of the brand through latex pieces, tailoring sans lapels and silk veils creates an unpredictable synergy of elegance and Apocalyptic imagery.

Wodaabe tribe of southern Niger.

Werner Herzog's documentary 'Herdsman of the Sun' projects the Wodaabe tribe of the depicts a celebration of male beauty, showing males dancing in elaborate costume, accentuating their height and whites of their eyes and teeth to attract females, as "Ave Maria"  is played in the background (a 1901 recording made by the last castrato of the Vatican).

Eric de Mare: The Architect's Photographer.

Eric de Mare's photography captures the awkward interaction between the Ornamentalism of English churches and Modernist industrial functionalism within a landscape.This relationship reaches beyond the visual to the uses of this space as a place of worship and industrial manufacturing. De Mare's work continued to influence the wave of architects who reconstructed post-war Britain perhaps reflecting the dualism of contemporary architecture.

If we consider John Pawson's Cistercian monastry Novy Dvur in the Czech Republic built in 1999, the architect has utilised two isolated architectural vernaculars: places of worship and Modernism. Yet by combining them, he has eliminated the ostentatious and superfluous detail thereby harnessing the dramatic qualities of natural light to reflect the humble values of the monks who use the space.